2020 Climbing Season – Success or Failure?

I climbed hard in 2020, and it paid off. I think this is the second season I can confidently say “I accomplished all my goals”. That in itself is a pretty happy moment in my short-ish 9 year climbing career. With my first 5.13b in the bag, I finally broke the “8th grade”, a major…

Climbing my first 8a/5.13b

Last year, in 2019, I made the decision to start putting in some honest effort into sending my first 5.13b. I had tried a couple, including The Hood at Acephale, and a few others. However, I hadn’t really ever thought of myself of even capable of 5.13b up until this point. As I alluded to…

Climbing on the Telltale Heart at Ravens Crag in Banff Alberta 5.13a

My Max Hang Protocol // Hangboard Progression

Hangboarding. The bane of every climbers’ training existence. My hangboarding journey first began first in 2018 when I sent my very first 5.13. after a solid 5 days of attempts and around 15 tries. The route (Timber, Planet X), at the time, felt like the very limit of my ability. It was, however, very much…

How to Climb 5.13 // Part II

In my last post, I talked about my journey from my first days climbing at Wasootch, to my first 5.10a later that season in 2012 to my first 5.12b and 5.12c in 2014 and 2016. This post covers the training season leading up to my first 5.13a in June of 2018. Toes in the Water…

The World’s Hardest Sport Climbs

The world of sport climbing has progressed in leaps and bounds since the days of the first 5.13 (The Phoenix in Yosemite) which was done by Ray Jardine in 1977. Standards have continued to increase, year over year, reaching a high point in 1991 when Wolfgang Gullich sent the now incredibly famous “Action Direct”, the…

Heart Line Climb (17 pitches, 5.9)

Heart line climb is a multi-pitch route located on the north-west side of Heart Mountain near Canmore Alberta. It is a link up of a number of older routes up a fairly defined ridgeline on the mountain, mostly retrofitted with newer bolts and anchors where needed. It is roughly 17 pitches long, starting at Heart…