Cathedral Peak is a magnificent massif located in Yoho National Park near Lake Louise. The Cathedral Massif is comprised of several summits, the tallest main summit rising to a towering 3,189m (10,462′), one of the loftier peaks in what is already a large and prominent range (Lake Louise Group). While Cathedral Peak is a classic…
The Alt-Left is a 5.11b A0 big wall multi-pitch climb located high above the Town of Canmore. This route is a modern mixed climb featuring all the best climbing that the Bow Valley is known for.
Arch Enemy (5.11d, Stanley Headwall) is what I would consider the ultimate modern classic. A simple approach, straightforward climbing, and well-protected, short cruxes in one of the most epic locations imaginable. This is like Takkakaw Falls on steroids, but far better rock, far better climbing, and even better views.
In 2019, I made the decision to commit to putting in the effort I knew would be required to send my first 5.13b. Over the years, I had attempted several – including The Hood at Acephale, Blue Jeans, and Army Ants (13c). Despite my attempts, I had not yet come to the conclusion that I…
If you have done any ski touring in the Canadian Rockies, you’ve probably heard of Bow Summit. The many dozens of cars parked here, and number of AST1 courses that take place here on any given weekend should hint that this is a very popular ski touring destination. But is it really the best first…
Hangboarding is one of those training tools that is extremely effective, but it is tricky to get right in terms of intensity, frequency, and balance with other forms of training and climbing. When I first started hangboarding, I had just sent my first 5.13 which at the time felt like the absolute limit of my…
In my last post, I talked about my journey from my first days climbing at Wasootch, to my first 5.10a later that season in 2012 to my first 5.12b and 5.12c in 2014 and 2016. This post covers the training season leading up to my first 5.13a in June of 2018. Toes in the Water…
Bow Valley Climbing Photography from 2018. My best of photo list from the season.
Climbing 5.13 was a seemingly impossible goal. In 2019 the impossible became possible. This is the story of how I got there.
Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. It is a pretty famous mountain in both climbing and non-climbing circles due partially to its prominence above the valley floor, and also due to the fact that all routes require…
