Craig Climbing the final pitch of the ultra classic dreambed on Yamnuska (5.11b, trad)

Dreambed (5.11b) on Yamnuska

Rock Climbing on Yamnuska has a well-deserved reputation for being terrifying, with Yamnuska itself having a reputation for being a bit of a horrifying choss pile. Even some of the easier routes offer a pretty harrowing experience in some cases with complex route finding, tricky gear, and no shortage of loose rock. Dreambed is a…

Minotaur Direct, 5.11+, Snowpatch East Face, Bugaboos Provincial Park (Topo & Description)

Minotaur Direct (5.11+, IV) – is a serious, but world-class 16-pitch alpine granite rock climb located on the East face of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboos Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada. This climb was first established in 2016 by Jon Walsh, Colin Moorhead, and Michelle Kadatz. Sadly, the original https://alpinestyle.ca website has disappeared from the web…

Climbing my first 8a/5.13b

In 2019, I made the decision to commit to putting in the effort I knew would be required to send my first 5.13b. Over the years, I had attempted several – including The Hood at Acephale, Blue Jeans, and Army Ants (13c). Despite my attempts, I had not yet come to the conclusion that I…

Climbing on the Telltale Heart at Ravens Crag in Banff Alberta 5.13a

My Max Hang Protocol // Hangboard Progression

Hangboarding. The bane of every climbers’ training existence. My hangboarding journey first began first in 2018 when I sent my very first 5.13. after a solid 5 days of attempts and around 15 tries. The route (Timber, Planet X), at the time, felt like the very limit of my ability. It was, however, very much…

How to Climb 5.13 // Part II

In my last post, I talked about my journey from my first days climbing at Wasootch, to my first 5.10a later that season in 2012 to my first 5.12b and 5.12c in 2014 and 2016. This post covers the training season leading up to my first 5.13a in June of 2018. Toes in the Water…