Arch Enemy on the Stanley Headwall in Yoho National Park is one of those incredible lines that went a little under the radar in the early days post-development, but has since become one of those must-do classics in the area. Jakob and I couldn’t have asked for better weather to tick this wildly impressive route. Good weather is a bit of a must for this one as it is high up in the alpine, shady most of the day, and gets a lot of spray in the afternoon from the epic Nemesis waterfall next door.
Arch Enemy is what I would consider the ultimate modern classic, and I expect it will become an extremely popular route in the very near future. The route features a very simple approach, straightforward and extremely fun climbing, with well-protected, short cruxes in one of the most epic locations imaginable. This is like Takkakaw Falls on steroids but with far better rock, far better climbing, and even better views. Fully bolted, with sub-30-meter pitches, and nearly perfect rock. This is as good as it gets, even better than most of the routes like Stanley Fever and Livin in Paradise which are both further to the left past Nemesis. I’m sure as the word gets out, this will become one of the most popular multi-pitches to climb in the Bow Valley in the Summer. Best get after it before you have to start getting in line.
The route was put up in 2014 by Jovan Simic and Erik Schnack, and freed at 5.11d by Matt Lucas later that same season. It’s actually shocking to me this route hasn’t seen much more traffic. It rivals anything else out there in the same “genre” of climbing (hard/moderate big sport multi-pitches) in terms of climbing quality and position/views. Even if 5.11d is a bit above your pay grade, both cruxes can be easily A0’d for what is still one of the best 5.11a’s in the Bow valley.
You will need at least 14 draws, and you can certainly link pitches 2+3, and 4+5 with a few extras in your pack. Pitches 2 & 5 are short. Walking off is possible, but it is also straightforward to rap the route with a 70m.
Approach
Park at the Stanley Glacier parking lot (get there early). Follow the hiking trail until it becomes obvious to head right/north towards an enormous boulder in the middle of the valley and hike the short slope to the base of the Nemesis waterfall. The route starts a couple of dozen meters to the right of the waterfall, left of the Stanley Headwall sport climbs. Look for bolts.
Route Description (below) & Topo. Anchors & line are approximate
P1 (5.7) 25m
The first pitch is a straightforward romp up some easy, sometimes chossy limestone ramps and corners leading to a comfortable belay at a ledge below a short wall.
P2 (5.10d) 15m
A couple of balancey moves up a short wall leads to a bit of an awkward bulge/mantle up onto another ledge before a pretty awesome corner.
P3 (5.11d) 20m
The first crux pitch. Climb an unbelievably aesthetic (but moderate) corner feature into a mediocre rest before launching into a powerful crux sequence that traverses out right through a couple bolts on the bulge until you find some easier holds and end on another ledge.
P4 (5.11d) 31m
Traverse left from the belay on increasingly slabby terrain (bolts) until you can reach left to a blind/hidden micro crimp. Find some feet and reach up to a good hold, clip a bolt, and enjoy some of the best 5.10 climbing you will find anywhere. Can also be A0’d for an amazing 5.10c pitch.
P5 (5.10+) 15m
Climb a short crack feature up to a massive lunch ledge directly beside/below the mind-blowing nemesis waterfall. The climbing isn’t memorable, but the lunch ledge is unbelievable.
P6 (5.11-) 25m
One of the best pitches of 5.11- around. Climb a huge corner feature directly to the right of the Nemesis waterfall, and navigate flakes, corners, aretes, and some incredible rock through some thoughtful sequences. End at a small ledge and an anchor to the right of the corner.
P7 (5.10b) 25m
Prepare to have your mind blown. Perfect edges on a vertical wall with jaw-dropping exposure and the ambiance of Nemesis blasting out only a few feet to your left. One of the most memorable pitches I have ever climbed. Bring a 3rd for an absolutely epic photo op.
Descent
Straightforward rap off with a 70m, or continue up to the plateau above Nemesis and walk off to the left. Sporty and unclear on the difficulty of walk off.
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